Vacheron Constantin is known for creating timepieces that fit a certain class and the wearer of a Vacheron usually has a feel for good taste. The fact that there’s a certain taste and tailored knowledge expected when wearing a Vacheron is underlined by the new collection the brand presents: The Métiers d’Art Elégance Sartoriale collection. A mouth full, but that works well with introducing five(!) new watches. This collection is Vacheron Constantin’s tribute to the sartorial style as known by the gentlemen from Hollywood. A style that slowly is picking up again through the gents of the new era. Having a flawless style is not to be underestimated. Gentlemen back in the days had a fine taste and knew how to dress themselves.
The Métiers d’Art Elégance Sartoriale collection is a homage to the fine art of savvy dressing – that’s how the brand describes it. With the use of subtle effects on the dial – each watch has its own look – the brand intents to relive those old days of perfect style. Now, I could describe the pattern as shown on each dial, but I don’t think that’s relevant. You like it, or you don’t. What I like about these five new watches is the fact that they used only a sub-dial. Each watch has a moon-shaped space covering the left part of the dial, which is used to display the famous patterns used in fabrics back in the days. A small hint to the wearer of the watch, reminding him a destroyed jeans and polo shirt do not compliment the watch he is wearing. I like it, after all, we still have to be gents every now and then.
The higher purpose of this collection lays in the fact that an experienced apiéceur – thanks for that title dear Vacheron press writer – and an experienced watchmaker both spend hours on their craft. I have to admit, Vacheron did a good job on that comparison. Watchmakers and apiéceurs both master a craft that costs a lot of time and a great eye for detail. Bringing those two crafts together in a watch is very original. Well done Vacheron, well done.
A bit less original is the names given to each piece in the collection. Since each watch has a different pattern on the dial, it could be very easy to name each watch after the pattern used. It would be a bit less original than the idea behind the collection, but why not? Well, that’s what the creative minds at Vacheron Constantin did. I will sum them up for you, so you can read them, note them, repeat them. Whatever you like. The first in line will be called the Prince of Wales check pattern, with a recognizable raspberry red translucent enamel. Then we have the Herringbone pattern, of course to be recognized through the zigzag motif and lavender-toned enamel. If you do not like the previous two watches, there’s always the Windowpane pattern for you to pick. With its characteristic regularity and geometry coloured in warm grey enamel. As I am writing down these names, I really feel like a salesperson from Vacheron – I bet you it’s because of these original names. Anyhow, on to the last two of the collection: the Pin Stripes pattern and the Tartar pattern. The Pin Stripes edition shimmers with a soft linen colour and the Tartar pattern is coated with a cerulean blue colour. To be honest, that last one really freaks me out. I would be bored of that dial after wearing it two or three times, but luckily I’m not the average Vacheron customer.
As for the sub-dial, Vacheron chose for a gold offset at 3 o’clock with a tapestry-like motif. Depending on your choice, this sub-dial looks paisley-type, floral or geometrical tie of pocket square patterns. You can say what you want, they did their best to show resemblance with quality tailor-made clothing styles. Again, very well-done. Except for the cerulean blue style, I definitely like these watches. The fact that the dial is at most a part of the design and not THE design is something I like and in my opinion should be considered more often.
A potential buyer can choose between two case varieties: 18K white gold or 5N pink gold. Both measuring 40mm in diameter. Each watch will be fitted with an alligator-leather strap traditionally done with a saddle-finish. Of course we can tell you that the design of the straps is totally in line with the craft of fine bootmakers. To accompany your watch and show others that you truly understand what style means and others don’t, Vacheron created cufflinks with the same tapestry motif as seen in the sub-dial of the watches.
A cool detail of this collection is the fact that the case back isn’t fully open. There’s an offset circular opening to show you a glimpse of the Calibre 1400 manual-wound movement. With a thickness of 20.65mm, 98 components and 20 jewels, this movement beats with 28.800(4Hz) vibrations per hour. After leaving your wrist, the watch will be alive for almost 40 hours.
Well, to conclude this promotional talk for Vacheron, I would like to say it was my pleasure writing this story. Now on a more serious note: the Métiers d’Art Elégance Sartoriale collection is a welcome classical watch collection. I like the design and even though the designs could rapidly become boring, I think Vacheron Constantin has made a watch that perfectly fits their imaginary buyer. The classy gent with a feel for the right style. Of course with one of these five watches around the wrist to complete that style. The materials, the dial placement, colours and overall design fit perfectly together. A nice classy collection. Au revoir!
Métiers d’Art Elégance Sartoriale
1400U/000G-B215 – prince of wales check pattern
1400U/000R-B159 –herringbone pattern
1400U/000R-B216 – windowpane pattern
1400U/000R-B217 – pin stripes pattern
1400U/000G-B218 – tartan pattern
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepieces
Only available in Vacheron Constantin Boutiques
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
20.65 mm (9’’’) diameter, 2.6 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
Hours and minutes
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold
40 mm diameter, 8.2 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)
Dial Prince of Wales check pattern:
Hand-guilloché “Prince of Wales check” pattern under raspberry red-coloured translucent Grand Feu enamel. Champagne-coloured tapestry gold dial at 3 o’clock, hour circle in mother-of-pearl, black painted Roman numerals
Hand-guilloché “herringbone” pattern under lavender-coloured translucent Grand Feu enamel. Champagne-coloured tapestry gold dial at 3 o’clock, hour circle in mother-of-pearl, black painted Roman numerals
Hand-guilloché “windowpane” pattern under warm grey translucent Grand Feu enamel. Champagne-coloured tapestry gold dial at 3 o’clock, hour circle in mother-of-pearl, black painted Roman numerals
Pin stripes pattern:
Hand-guilloché “pin stripes” pattern under linen-coloured translucent Grand Feu enamel. Champagne-coloured tapestry gold dial at 3 o’clock, hour circle in mother-of-pearl, black painted Roman numerals
Hand-guilloché “tartan” pattern under royal blue translucent Grand Feu enamel. Champagne-coloured tapestry gold dial at 3 o’clock, hour circle in mother-of-pearl, black painted Roman numerals
Burgundy/dark brown/warm grey /brown/dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped