H. Moser & Cie
First day at BaselWorld 2017, means quietly starting up. As the day started at 4 o’clock this morning, we were happy this day had a very comfortable planning. A few brands a day keeps the stress away. One of today’s brands was H. Moser & Cie. A brand we very much adore because of their extremely well-balanced elegance and simplicity.
As you may know, Moser presented a few very different novelties from the start of 2017. There was the Swiss Alp Watch colab with Hautlence, the Pioneer Centre Seconds in stainless steel and the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Purity. Those aren’t even all of their novelties, but enough to wet your pants.
It is amazing how a brand can be so very good without being the most complicated, storytelling one out there. One of the reasons we had to pay them a visit during this year’s BaselWorld.
The Endeavour Centre Seconds in red gold and white gold
The contestants we got to see where four Endeavour models, two in white and two in red gold. Probably one of the best possible dress watches of this moment, with the signature fumé dial and rank curves.
A characteristic what we liked is the fact that the lugs smoothly flow over into the case, with a subtle cavity on both sides of the case. This makes the total design very smooth. These four new Endeavour models come with a new addition to the collection of Moser movements: the HMC200 automatic movement with gold engraved rotor.
The movement gives these watches a power reserve of up to 3 days and is finished with the signature Moser stripes, as we know from previous watches in their collection. The 18kt Red Gold editions will be available with the signature fumé dial we instantly recognize – the one that looks either brown, gray or greenish – and a midnight-blue fumé dial. That last one is very cool, since it’s harder to spot the fumé effect. Which effectively makes it very mysterious. In one way or another.
The 18kt White Gold models will also be available with the signature fumé dial and a Funky Blue dial or sky-blue fumé. The red gold edition will come with a brown alligator-leather strap, whereas the white gold edition will have either a Kudu-leather strap or a black alligator-leather strap.
Good to know: the midnight-blue fumé dial will have a different strap than all the others. Its alligator-leather strap is actually woven, so it matches perfectly with the belt you’ve inherited from your great-great-grandfather. No without jokes, it’s a cool strap. A very cool strap indeed.
All watch measure a neat 40mm and have a height of 10.7mm, which is very good for a dress watch in our opinion.
The Pioneer in Stainless Steel
Next one in line is the Pioneer Centre Seconds in Stainless Steel: probably the most modernistic watch of the Moser collection this far. Okay, not really, since the Swiss Alp Collab with Hautlence is probably the most extreme and modern one, but hey, as far as their ‘normal’ creations go, the Pioneer wins the title.
What immediately catches your eye is the fact that this Pioneer is a lot buffer than the ones we’ve mentioned before this one. It has the same kind of cavities as the Endeavour collection, however these are slightly more industrial and manly than the smooth curves of the Endeavour.
This Pioneer Centre Seconds also gets its life from the HMC200 calibre and also has a 3-day power reserve. Since this watch comes in stainless steel – and is therefore the most accessible Moser watch – the rotor of the HMC200 is adapted and created out of steel too. It is only fair to match materials.
Still, even though the Pioneer is visibly bigger and a tad bit buffer, it does feel like a Moser watch. It ticks all the boxes a Moser watch should tick in our opinion, so the fact that it’s made from stainless steel, has a bit less well-curved shapes and wears a larger suit doesn’t mean anything.
It measures 42.8mm in diameter and knows a height of 11.3mm. That is, without sapphire crystal. If you think this slightly manlier version is ready to explore the oceans, be aware that it’s only water resistant up to 120 meters. So, please do not visit the Titanic with this beauty. You will regret that.
The Swiss Alp Watch Minute Retrogade
So, as we mentioned a few sentences above, the most crazy timepiece we’ve seen at Moser’s was the Swiss Alp Watch collab with Hautlence. In short: the Swiss Alp Watch Minute Retrogade. In their own words, it’s everything you would expect from Haute Horlogerie.
To be honest, it is a giant. To be able to wear it around your wrist means you’re either very strong, or constantly moving with a crutch supporting your arm. Besides that, it’s a very cool timepiece with a high level of horlogerie and complicated stuff.
At the centre of the watch, you find a ‘Grand Feu’ enamel dial displaying the minutes. This done by a flame-blued hand. The case is a lot higher than the one we’ll find at the standard Swiss Alp watch. Another big difference is the fact that this watch has sapphire crystal sides, which means you can embrace each angle of the spectacular movement.
The biggest detail of this watch is the rotating regulating organ, as a part of the Hautlence HL2.0 movement. The hours are displayed by 12 Roman numerals driven by a chain. In contrast to regular jump hour constructions, these hours ‘slowly’ slide into place in a window of about three to four seconds.
Displayed at 6 o’clock, you’ll find the power reserve indicator, which displays the 45 hours of power reserve.
So H. Moser & Cie?
Well, not much to say to be honest. It was a great start of day 1 for us and we are happy to pay the makers of Cheese watches a visit. We truly adore their timepieces and we hope this won’t change in the near future.
Visit the H. Moser & Cie. website here.
Visit the Hautlence website here.